Learn me, Oppo

"Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection" (itsalwayssteve) 09/30/2017 at 17:53 • Filed to: jerp, xj, cherokee, Jeep

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I just talked to my sister because my wife and I are in the market for a second car. I asked her if she would be willing to sell me her beat up ‘94 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 Country 2wd and she said, “just take it away.” She bought it for $1500 two years ago and after its last trip to the shop she said, “no thanks. I’ll just get rid of it.”

Like this, but with 250k miles and faded paint.

According to her mechanic, it needs a starter, alternator, rear transmission mount, pads/rotors/possibly calipers, and new radiator hoses. It runs, but barely. The engine and transmission (4-speed auto) were rebuilt like 80k miles ago, with documentation.

For an amateur mechanic without any specialty tools, how hard would it be to do what needs done? All the parts could be had for under $400 total from RockAuto and I’ve done accessories, hoses, and brakes before. I’ve helped replace starters on multiple rear-drive American cars as well.

So if I get this thing towed to my house, what am I getting myself into?

Daily Drives a Dragon - One Last Lap > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 17:56

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It can’t be that bad. And remember, if it’s too terrible, just contact David Tracy and he’ll take it in for his XJ rescue and rehabilitation program.

cmill189 - sans Volvo > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 18:09

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A 2wd Jeep at any price seems weird to me.

Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 18:16

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good thing he got it for free then haha

cmill189 - sans Volvo > Sampsonite24-Earth's Least Likeliest Hero 09/30/2017 at 18:21

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The known repairs though...

jminer > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 18:43

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None of those repairs are that complicated or expensive, but the barely runs part worries me. With the mechanic diagnosing both an alternator and starter as bad is troubling. Seems like there could be larger issues. If both the batter and alternator are bad then it also needs a new battery and cables.

On the other hand, I had an old Dodge truck that barely ran and I kept putting in batteries, starters, alternators and voltage regulators and all it needed was new cables. I replaced the positive and ground cable and it ran perfectly. I got pretty pissed that I didn’t start with $30 of parts and threw a couple hundred at it first.

If you want a project and would want the car when done I say go for it. I’ve learned my lesson and turn down free projects that I wouldn’t want when complete now...

LongbowMkII > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 19:32

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A 4wd vehicle seems odd to me.

Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 19:33

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You were saying?

pip bip - choose Corrour > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 19:43

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David Tracy will suddenly feel the urge to spam you with requests to sell it to him

Frenchlicker > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 20:57

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Shush, how else am I supposed to make a drag jeep on the cheap?

Matsayz > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 21:04

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I’ve done all of that stuff and I’m no mechanic. Spray everything with Liquid Wrench....... for days before you do anything and grab an impact wrench or air tools. If you’re replacing hoses, might as well grab a new radiator.

Tons and tons of videos on YouTube and Internet. Good luck!

Frenchlicker > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 21:10

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That’s my feelings on that. I’m jealous.

merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc > jminer 09/30/2017 at 21:35

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Yeah sounds like bad grounding or something similar, but new battery too, just for good measure.

gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 22:22

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The 2wd problem can be fixed easily enough over a weekend for reasonably cheap. It’s pretty well all bolt-in, with the only extra work maybe being drilling some holes for t-case shift handle.

cmill189 - sans Volvo > gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee 09/30/2017 at 22:43

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I have learned something today.

gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 09/30/2017 at 22:55

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Starter is super easy to get at from underneath. Swapping it is maybe a 20-minute job. Just remember to disconnect the battery cables from the battery end first, and don’t mix up which bolt goes where. The two bolts are roughly the same size but one is metric and the other isn’t... Thanks AMC. I think all you’ll need is a 5/16 socket, 13mm/1/2", and a 15mm/9/16" but don’t rely on my memory.

Alternator also isn’t difficult. The serpentine belt tensioner is the power steering pump. Probably change the serp belt too while you’re at it unless it’s newish. Standard socket set should be all you need here too.

But before either of those things, make sure the battery cables are in decent shape. Sometimes they corrode under the insulation. I’d try checking with an ohmmeter. (Any cheap voltmeter will have one). New battery cables are much cheaper than starters and alternators. If they’re original they probably should be changed anyway after 23 years.

You’ll probably want a 1/2" drive socket set to change the trans mount, ‘cause you need to drop the crossmember to do it. And either a breaker bar or air tools. It’s not a bad job as long as you can break the nuts/bolts loose on it. Put a jack under the transmission pan (use a board to distribute the load) to keep the trans supported before you drop the crossmember. Remember which holes the bolts go in cause there are two sets, one for automatic and the other for manual, although it should be fairly obvious. Soak all the bolts/nuts in PB blaster, Kroil or other penetrant (something stronger than wd40) if there’s any sign of rust or you’ll probably bust them off. Although that shouldn’t be that big an issue if they were undone 80k ago.

Pads and rotors are super easy. Remove the front wheel, (3/4" socket on the lug nuts or 18mm if they’re original and had the chromed cap come off... I like to use a deep 1/2" drive socket on a ratcheting breaker bar for this) then pull the calliper slide pins... I wanna say 13mm, and pop the calliper off, pull the pads out, the rotor probably just fell off. Before you take the calliper off try to crack the bleeder on it, if you can’t just get a replacement calliper, rebuilt ones are cheap. Bleed them after you get the brakes back together but before you put the wheels back on. It’ll probably need done with the old callipers (and could solve issues with them) and definitely needs done on new callipers.

Rad hoses are super easy. Local parts store probably has them in stock already. Refill the coolant with a proper mix, don’t use tap water if you can avoid it. It’ll probably take a few hours to do this just because the hoses like to stick on. Don’t over tighten hose clamps putting them back on or you’ll either strip the clamp or cut the hose. I wouldn’t reuse hose clamps either.

The barely running issue is probably related to the starter/alternator issue I’m guessing. But you can also check for OBD1 trouble codes by rocking the ignition key back and forth and counting CEL flashes.

gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee > cmill189 - sans Volvo 09/30/2017 at 23:16

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The 2wd version is pretty much just the 4x4 one with the transfer case and front differential “deleted”. The body and suspension and everything are the same between them. So you just need to source the 4x4 trans, tcase, shifter, & linkage, and driveshafts (front and rear) and front axle. Unbolt 2wd components and bolt on 4x4 stuff.

Tristan > gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee 10/01/2017 at 03:25

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Not even. There’s a plate covering the hole that unbolts. I did the 4x4 conversion in an afternoon.

Tristan > Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection 10/01/2017 at 03:29

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They’re literally the easiest thing to work on. Ever. They’re basically made of legos.